AeroMarine Products, Inc.

Toll-free phone:
  1(877)342-8860

AeroMarine Products
4128 Napier St.
San Diego, CA  92110

FAQ's

Q. I'd like to embed bottlecaps, baseball cards, photographs or posters in my countertop. Is this possible?
A. Yes people do that all the time. Don't put anything irreplaceable in epoxy because you will never be able to remove that item. Also, it's also impossible to test every possible product that someone may want to encase in epoxy. We have never had a customer tell us about any kind of incompatibility, but making a small test is certainly a good idea.

Q. How thick should I make a countertop or bar top?
A. We generally recommend 1/8 of an inch. That is typical of what you will see in a restaurant such as Hooters or Outback Steakhouse. Keep in mind that doubling the thickness will double the cost of your project. The maximum thickness that I recommend is 3/8". This is because the epoxy generates heat in order to cure- the thicker the pour the greater the heat- It's called exotherm.

Q. How big a batch should I mix at one time?
A. The first few batches should be small so that you learn how to use the epoxy- maybe a quart or two- after you get the hang of using the epoxy then you might mix a gallon or two at a time.

Q. Can I pour additional layers over a cured layer?
A. Yes- generally there is no prep required between coats when pouring a table top. Be certain that the first batch has begun to cool before pouring the next coat.

Q. How do I handle the edges?
A. This can be tricky, depending on what effect you are trying to accomplish. In order to avoid trapping air bubbles, an epoxy coating needs to be quite thin. Otherwise, any air trapped in the mix will not rise and escape to the surface- So if you need to pour a thick countertop then you may need to build a dam around the top, then remove the dam. Most pros use formica to create the dam, and use vaseline as a release agent. Alternately, a wood strip can be used as the dam and left in place. A third method is just to brush, roll, or pour several layers onto the countertop and let the excess run off- but this can take several coats if you are trying to build up a lot of thickness.

Q. Is this epoxy UV (sunlight) resistant?
A. This epoxy is more UV resistant than most because it is a cylcoaliphatic system, but it still is not totally UV resistant and should not be used in direct sunlight.

Q. How much heat can this epoxy take?
A. About 250F, which means that you can put hot cups of coffee or tea on it- but never put a hot pan or skillet from the stove directly onto the epoxy.

Q. I've read on other sites that you should use a torch or a heat gun to break air bubbles. What do you recommend?
A. I only recommend breathing onto the epoxy to break any air bubbles. The speed of the air from a heat gun may cause waves in the surface. The same holds true for propane torches- the propane is under a lot of pressure and leaves the torch at a high speed, often causing waves in the countertop. Plus it is tempting to use too much heat. In this case, "if a little is good, then a lot is better" doesn't apply here.

Q. Do you have any other tips?
A. It is important to keep the dust down for the first 12 hours after the pour. It's a good idea to just close off the room for the day to prevent dust from settling on the countertop.

Q. Why are some epoxies 1:1 mix and others 2:1 mix?
A. To make a 2:1 mix epoxy into a 1:1 mix epoxy the formulator adds a chemical called Nonyl Phenol to the hardener. Nonyl Phenol is a very cheap additive that sort of "waters down" the hardener. It's like making a bouquet of flowers look bigger by adding some carnations to the mix. We don't do it. Note: This does not apply to epoxy glues. Most epoxy glues are 1:1 mix because they use a diiferent sort of hardener called a polyamide.