AeroMarine Products - Your one stop shopping center for Epoxy resins, silicone moldmaking rubber, pour foam, casting resin, and concrete stamping/mold making rubber.

John Greer & Associates

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Silicone "Moldmaking 101"

Epoxy resins, silicone moldmaking rubber, pour foam, casting resin, and concrete stamping/mold making rubber.
 
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John Greer & Associates
4128 Napier St.
San Diego, CA  92110

AeroMarine Epoxy F.A.Q.'s

Technical questions: Business Questions:
Q.  You have two different systems.  Which should I use?
A. The 300/21 system is the most versatile.  You can use it as an adhesive, coating, laminating, or casting resin.
If you are using epoxy strictly as an adhesive, then the 300/11 is your best choice.  It is thicker than 300/21 and it is a bit more flexible when cured.

Q.  How critical is the mix ratio?
A.  It's not critical at all with the 300/11.  You can be 1/3 off on the mix and it will still work- But try to be as close as conveniently possible. For the 300/21 system, you should try to be close.

Q.  How much epoxy do I need?
A. If laminating with cloth, it is a general rule to use an equal weight of mixed epoxy to the weight of the cloth.  This gives us a 50/50 resin/cloth ratio, which is a common ratio.  Take the weight per yard of the cloth, then factor in the width of the cloth, and use the same weight of mixed epoxy.  For instance, my carbon fiber cloth weighs almost 6 ounces per square yard- but since it is 50" wide then a linear yard weighs about 8 ounces.  Therefore, you need 8 ounces of mixed epoxy for each linear yard of my carbon fiber cloth.
If brushed or rolled onto a smooth surface, one mixed gallon of epoxy covers 1600 square feet at one mil (.001) thickness.  One mil is not a practical thickness, but it gives a basis for calculating for your particular application.  For instance, a ten mil layer of epoxy, which is a nice thin coating, would yield 160 square feet per gallon.  A coating of 1/32" would yield 50 square feet per mixed gallon.  Remember to double these figures for the gallon kit which makes two gallons.
None of these calculations takes waste into account.

Q.  Can I use a thinner to make the epoxy more 'flowable'?
A. 
The 300/21 system is very thin, so you should not have to thin it.  If you really, really, want to, the answer is yes.  The best thinners are lacquer thinner, acetone, MEK, Toluene, or xylene.  The only thinner to avoid is regualr paint thinner, also known as mineral spirits. These thinners are flammable, and the epoxy generates heat while it's curing- So it is best to add the thinner then spread immediately.  This allows the thinner to evaporate.  Use as little thinner as possible.

Q.  What do I use for clean-up?
A.  For hands-Soap and water works OK- so do most household cleaners such as Formula 409.  Solvents such as lacquer thinner, acetone, MEK, Toluene, or xylene can also be used.  All of the new Citrus and Orange based products do a good job, too.  For heavy-duty cleaning, I keep a spray can of carburetor cleaner around.


Q.  Can I use your resin with "WEST System" hardeners?

A.  They probably wouldn't appreciate it, but yes, my resin works fine with their hardeners.  We probably all buy from the same manufacturers.

Q.  How can I speed up the cure?
A.  Heat works best- Gradually raise the temperature and the epoxy will cure much more rapidly.  Don't exceed 200°F.  

Q.  How do I dissolve cured epoxy?
A.  Use a methylene Chloride based solvent.  They are available at hardware and paint stores as paint strippers.  Jasco makes a good one.


Q.  How do I clean a surface before bonding?
A.  Abrasion and/or solvent wipe.  I always keep a spray can of carburetor cleaner handy when working with epoxy.

Q.  Will it bond to a painted surface?
A.  Yes, but it is best to bond to the parent material; Make sure that the paint is well bonded to the substrate.


Q.  Is it UV resistant?
A.  No.  It needs to be painted or varnished if it will be used as a coating or laminating resin exposed to direct sunlight.  The 300/21 cycloaliphatic system has better UV resistance than most epoxies.

Q.  How big of a batch can I mix?
A.  About a quart or so is the most, at least until you gain experience working with epoxies. Later, you might mix a half gallon or so.

Q.  How do I change the color?
A. I have a few epoxy colorants laying around- give me a call and I will let you know what I have in stock.  I always stock black and white because they are popular.  If you like, I will precolor the resin black or white before shipping.  Just be sure to let me know.


Q.  How can I thicken the epoxy?
A. It can be thickened with the epoxy thickeners mentioned on the epoxy resin page.  When mixed approximately 1:1 with the total mixed epoxy system you will get a result about the same thickness as vaseline.  You could use more or less epoxy thickener to get the results that you want.  You can use it to make a fairing or filleting compound that will build thickness on a vertical surface.

Q.  Why is your epoxy so cheap?
A. 
My overhead is low.  I buy epoxy resins and hardeners from manufacturers such as Shell Oil, Dow Chemical, and Huntsman (formerly Ciba-Geigy).  I buy in drums and repackage into smaller containers.  I spend a lot less on marketing; I don't have the cans silk-screened, and I don't have (expensive) distributors.

Q.  Do you take credit cards?
A.  Yes, by telephone. If you use the shopping cart the order will be processed by PayPal, which is very safe and easy.  I generally offer 30 day terms to government and university buyers.

Q.  How soon do you ship?
A.  I generally ship within 24 hours.

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