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Q:
You have two different epoxy systems. Which should I use?
A: The 300/21 system is the most versatile. You can
use it as an adhesive, coating, laminating, or casting resin. It is great for use with fiberglass or carbon fiber cloth.
The 300/21 does not blush, which is a huge plus if you are laminating with cloth or coating. If you are using epoxy strictly as an adhesive, then the 300/11 is your
best choice. It is thicker than 300/21 and it is a bit more flexible
when cured.
Q: How
critical is the mix ratio?
A: It's not critical at all with the 300/11. You can be 1/3 off on the mix
and it will still work- But try to be as close as conveniently possible.
For the 300/21 system, you should try to be close- But we have done tests off ratio (like 3:1) and it performs well.
Q: How much epoxy do I need?
A: If laminating with cloth, it is a general rule to try to use an
equal weight of mixed epoxy to the weight of the cloth. This gives
us a 50/50 resin/cloth ratio, which is a desired ratio. Take the
weight per yard of the cloth, then factor in the width of the cloth, and
use the same weight of mixed epoxy.
If brushed or rolled
onto a smooth surface, one mixed gallon of epoxy covers 1600 square
feet at one mil (.001") thickness. One mil is not a practical
thickness, but it gives a basis for calculating for your particular
application. For instance, a ten mil layer of epoxy, which is a nice
thin coating, would yield 160 square feet per gallon. A coating of
1/32" would yield 50 square feet per mixed gallon. Remember to
double these figures for the gallon kit which makes two gallons.
None of these calculations takes waste into account.
Q: How much heat can this epoxy take?
A: The 300/21 can take about 250F, which means that you can put hot cups of coffee or tea on it- but never put a hot pan or skillet from the stove directly onto the epoxy.
Q: Can I use a thinner to make the epoxy more 'flowable'?
A:The 300/21 system is very thin, so you should not have
to thin it. If you really, really, want to, the answer is yes. The
best thinners are lacquer thinner, acetone, MEK, Toluene, or xylene.
The only thinner to avoid is regualr paint thinner, also known as mineral spirits. These thinners are flammable, and the epoxy generates heat while it's
curing- So it is best to add the thinner then spread immediately.
This allows the thinner to evaporate. Use as little thinner as
possible. Remember that any thinner needs to evaporate, so avoid using thinners in castings or laminates.
Q: How I remove "amine blush"?
A: Amine blush should be removed with a scotch-brite bad and a lot of water. AeroMarine 300/21 does not blush.
Q: What do I use for clean-up?
A: For hands-Soap and water works OK- so do most household cleaners
such as Formula 409. All of the new Citrus and
Orange based products do a good job, too. For routine cleaning, keep a spray can of carburetor cleaner around. For cleaning tools and spills, use solvents such as lacquer thinner, acetone, MEK,
Toluene, or xylene.
Q: How can I speed up the cure?
A: Heat works best- Gradually raise the temperature and the epoxy
will cure much more rapidly. Don't exceed 200°F.
Q: How do I dissolve cured epoxy?
A: Use a methylene chloride based solvent. They are
available at hardware and paint stores as paint strippers. Jasco
makes a good one- it comes in a gold colored can.
Q: How do I clean a surface before bonding?
A: Abrasion and/or solvent wipe. I always keep a spray can
of carburetor cleaner handy when working with epoxy.
Q: Does polyester gel coat adhere to your epoxy?
A:
Yes, our customers have had many successful applications of gel coat over our 300/21 epoxy system. Roughing up the epoxy to give the polyester more 'bite' is a good ideA:
Q: Will it bond to a painted surface?
A: Yes, but it is best to bond to the parent material; Make sure
that the paint is well bonded to the substrate.
Q: Is it UV resistant?
A: The 300/21
cycloaliphatic system has better UV resistance than any other epoxy, but it's not perfect. It needs to be painted or varnished if it will be used as a
coating or laminating resin exposed to direct sunlight for a long time.
Q: How big of a batch can I mix?
A: About a quart or so is the most, at least until you gain
experience working with epoxies. Later, you might mix a half gallon or so.
Q: How do I change the color?
A: We stock colorants made specifically for epoxy in black, white, grey, blue, red, and yellow. From blue red and yellow, which are the primary colors, you can create any almost other color you want. We will precolor the resin black, grey, or white before
shipping. Just be sure to let us know.
Q: How can I thicken the epoxy?
A: It can be thickened with the epoxy thickeners mentioned on the
epoxy resin page. When mixed approximately 1:1 with the total mixed
epoxy system you will get a result about the same thickness as vaseline.
You could use more or less epoxy thickener to get the results that you
want. You can use it to make a fairing or filleting compound that
will build thickness on a vertical surface.
Q: Can I apply this epoxy directly to Styrofoam or EPS (expanded polystyrene)?
A: Yes, our epoxies have no effect on Styrofoam. They bond to it very well.
Q: How do I determine the relative amounts of resin to cloth?
A: Under ideal conditions you will use just a bit more resin than cloth by weight. The higher the ratio of cloth to resin the better. Aircraft manufacturers try to get a 1:1 ratio of cloth to resin, but they use expensive autoclaves and platens. Most of us working under more average conditions are lucky to get below a 2:1 ratio of resin to cloth.
Q: How many layers of cloth do I need?
A: It all depends on what you are trying to accomplish. The hull of an ocean going vessel may contain a few dozen layers of cloth, while a wood kayak might have only one layer of cloth. It is generally better to use multiple layers of light weight cloth than fewer layers of heavy cloth.
Q: How do I go about fiberglassing the hull of my boat?
A: Start by cutting the cloth in to slightly larger sections than you will be needing. Mix a small batch of epoxy and brush it into a few areas that will tack the cloth to the wood. Then stretch the cloth to fit the area you are working on and apply more mixed epoxy over the cloth. Squeegee or roll the excess resin out of the cloth. When the cloth changes color from white to clear you know that the cloth has been saturated with enough epoxy. Squeegee off most of the excess because excess epoxy will just result in unnecessary weight. If you need to apply more layers of cloth, it can be done immediately. The sooner the additional layers are applied, the more of a chemical bond you will attain. With a non blushing epoxy you can add further layers, even weeks after the previous layer, however it is preferred to sand lightly to help key the old layer to the old layer.
FAQ's about Epoxy Countertops
Q: I'd like to embed bottlecaps, baseball cards, photographs or posters in my countertop. Is this possible?
A: Yes people do that all the time. Don't put anything irreplaceable in epoxy because you will never be able to remove that item. Also, it's also impossible to test every possible product that someone may want to encase in epoxy. We have never had a customer tell us about any kind of incompatibility, but making a small test is certainly a good ideA:
Q: How thick should I make a countertop?
A: We generally recommend 1/8 of an inch. That is typical of what you will see in a restaurant such as Hooters or Outback Steakhouse. Keep in mind that doubling the thickness will double the cost of your project. The maximum thickness that I recommend is 3/8". This is because the epoxy generates heat in order to cure- the thicker the pour the greater the heat- It's called exotherm.
Q: How big a batch should I mix at one time?
A: The first few batches should be small so that you learn how to use the epoxy- maybe a quart or two- after you get the hang of using the epoxy then you might mix a gallon or two at a time.
Q: Can I pour additional layers over a cured layer?
A: Yes- generally there is no prep required between coats. Be certain that the first batch has begun to cool before pouring the next coat.
Q: How do I handle the edges?
A: This can be tricky, depending on what effect you are trying to accomplish. In order to avoid trapping air bubbles, an epoxy coating needs to be quite thin. Otherwise, any air trapped in the mix will not rise and escape to the surface- So if you need to pour a thick countertop then you may need to build a dam around the top, then remove the dam. Most pros use formica to create the dam, and use vaseline as a release agent. Alternately, a wood strip can be used as the dam and left in place. A third method is just to brush, roll, or pour several layers onto the countertop and let the excess run off- but this can take several coats if you are trying to build up a lot of thickness.
Q: Is this epoxy UV (sunlight) resistant?
A: This epoxy is more UV resistant than most because it is a cylcoaliphatic system, but it still is not totally UV resistant and should not be used for table tops kept in direct sunlight.
Q: I've read on other sites that you should use a torch or a heat gun to break air bubbles. What do you recommend?
A: I only recommend breathing onto the epoxy to break any air bubbles. The speed of the air from a heat gun may cause waves in the surface. The same holds true for propane torches- the propane is under a lot of pressure and leaves the torch at a high speed, often causing waves in the countertop. Plus it is tempting to use too much heat. In this case, "if a little is good, then a lot is better" doesn't apply here.
Q: Do you have any other tips?
A: It is important to keep the dust down for the first 12 hours after the pour. It's a good idea to just close off the room for the day to prevent dust from settling on the countertop.
General business questions:
Q: Why is
your epoxy so cheap?
A: Our overhead is low. We buy epoxy resins and hardeners
from manufacturers such as Shell Oil, Dow Chemical, and Huntsman (formerly
Ciba-Geigy). We buy in drums and repackage into smaller
containers. We spend a lot less on marketing, don't have the cans
silk-screened, and don't have (expensive) distributors.
Q: Do you take credit cards?
A: Yes, by telephone. If you use the shopping
cart the order will be processed by PayPal, which is very safe and
easy. We generally offer 30
day terms to government and university buyers.
Q: Can I pick stuff up at your warehouse?
A: Yes, we have a retail store as part of our warehouse. The address is 4128 Napier St., San Diego, CA 92110.. Will call hours are between 9am and 4pm Monday thru Friday.
Shipping FAQ's
Q: Do you ship outside the US?
A: Yes, if it makes sense. The Post office is usually the best carrier, but they don't like to take large containers of chemicals such as 5 gallon pails. UPS will take just about anything anywhere, bt it can get expensive.
Q: How about shipping to Alaska or Hawaii?
A: It can be a problem with large orders. The Post Office doesn't like to take liquids, especially in buckets. UPS doesn't mind liquids or buckets, but the cost can be high. Our shipping charges in the shopping cart reflect shipment to the contiguous 48 states. In most cases the shipping is higher to AK or HI.
Q: How soon do you ship?
A: We generally ship the same business day.
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